I just fell in love with my larger (1590bb) OpAmp BMP but I really wanted a standard sized (1590b) pedal. I looked all over the place for a PCB transfer and attempted to make my own but this layout I found on FSB was perfect. Did not have to chafe much. I may look at doing a tone bypass switch on this also.
Here is the PCB in testing.
I hope to have this boxed up by this Sunday.
Testing out this great sounding Marshall Plexi amp emulator and it sounds great. Still tweaking it some but it should be ready for a box this weekend.
This is a build I did for my father of the awesome 1776 Effects Rub-A-Dub reverb. I just live how this came out.
Building this for a buddy and thought I would give it a proper test before boxing it up.
I just finished this great modded Marshall Bluesbreaker. I am super happy with the out come and this will defiantly be on my board. The only thing is wish for was board mounted pots. I think I will try to alter the layout in Eagle sometime in the future.
Note: The daughter boards I have been making for the 3PDT foot switches have been working out well. I think I will just start printing them with every design to do for each etched board.
Note 2: I started to solder on all wires from the bottom of the board. I really wanted to do it with this board but I ran out of depth on top of the pots. If I build this again, I will redesign this in Eagle and make it PCB mounted pots friendly.
Schematic by irmcdermott
I am working on a Bear Hug Compressor by Jon Patton for my Aunt. I was just about to box it up when I was finished testing it when I noticed it may be a little to subtle. I not sure how it is supposed to sound and compressors have got to be the hardest pedal to “test”. I ran across some tips that Jon posted over at Madbeanpedals forums.
You can verify if it’s working properly by probing the resistance between the source of Q3 and ground at idle and when it’s playing with the comp knob at max. It should jump up from ~300 Ohms to somewhere between 1K and 2K when playing, maybe higher on a hard strum. If not, then I have some suggestions.
Keep in mind that with a fast attack and recovery, it’s going to sound subtle pretty much no matter what. It was designed to prevent volume spikes and boost the signal, rather than for all-out squash or sustaining. However, the gain drop is pretty significant in practice at max compression (for comparison, it’s like turning the boost pot on a Thunderpuss halfway down and then back up again really quickly), even though it’s hard to hear it working.
He also states that his voltages on the transistors are as follows
Q1 is D: 7.8v, G: 2.8v, S: 2v
Q2 is C: 7.8v, B: 1.04v, E: .5v
So I need to get checking and see if this is first “working” and if its going to be to subtle for my Aunt.
I wanted to layout some kits to have on hand of the standard drum machines and a few vinyl chops that I like using. What I have found with the Native Instruments kits is that when I lay a beat down I am able to switch kits and still have the kick and snare properly mapped out. The reason for this is that Native Instruments has a “default” layout of sounds to make up a kit. Not all drum kits follow this rule but I would say 90% of them do. Here is a basic layout that I made in Photoshop to show the default layout.
I will make a kit as an example and upload it here later this week.
I found a thread at FSB that was a list of “things I have learned along the way” and I found some really great information that I always seem to have to look up. I wanted to make a note of it so I can look it up as needed.
More to come…
My 1176 Effects Six Shooter EQ build. I have been sitting on this PCB for about 3 weeks waiting for parts. It’s a great sounding EQ and have needed on for my rig for awhile. I am really excited about this build.
Just got this delivered today. I can’t wait to start matching some germanium transistors.
