Looking at making a MIDI controller for my Timeline and wanted to look at a few options. First off the retail units I have been reading about.

Tech 21 MIDI Mouse
Disaster Area MMC-3
PedalSync OZ

I am really wanting to take advantage of the Full/Half speed toggle and the reverse and Undo functions. To start out I will most likely look at doing a 3 footswitch box just for those functions until I can learn more about how to have mode switching like the Disaster Area units have.

Strymon Timeline MIDI implementation chart for looping functions:

You can set up your MIDI controller with either MIDI CC (continuous controller), or MIDI note numbers.

MIDI CC values:

• Record – CC# 87, any value
• Play – CC# 86, any value
• Stop – CC# 85, any value
• Reverse (toggle) – CC# 94, any value
• Full/Half Speed (toggle) – CC# 95, any value
• Pre/Post (toggle) – CC# 96, any value
• Undo (to initial loop) – CC# 89, any value
• Redo – CC# 90, any value
• Looper Level – CC# 90, value range 0-17

Note values:

• Record – note 0, velocity > 0
• Play – note 2, velocity > 0
• Stop – note 4, velocity > 0
• Reverse (toggle) – note 14, velocity > 0
• Full/Half Speed (toggle) – note 16, velocity > 0
• Pre/Post (toggle) – note 17, velocity > 0
• Undo (to initial loop) – note 7, velocity > 0
• Redo – note 9, velocity > 0

I was thinking about doing a Arduino project but figured it would be to bulky and to much unneeded overhead. I think a basic PIC with a small program to translate the MIDI values will be my best option.

More to come…

I used a Madbean Mudbunny as a base PCB for this great big muff pi variant. This thing just screams “stoner rock” at its finest. I am really starting to like the diode switch set to no diodes, it sounds so harsh.. in a good way. The High/Low input switch I found pretty useless in my situation since the high setting always sounded better to my ears. I will need to see what the real purpose of this switch is.. I might not understand its usage clearly.

Finally.. FINALLY.. I got a working layout. I had so many problems getting this to work and come to find out I had an old layout that had errors. Thanks to the guys at DIYSB they help to point me in the right direction. Now that its done I simply love this fuzz, it is my 2nd favorite fuzz with the v4 Big Muff OpAmp fuzz. This pedal nails that harsh fuzz that I was craving.

Here is the layout I used

 

I am a bit sad since I got this all put together and I dropped a screw driver on it and chipped the paint right next to the SPDT switch.

I was looking for a Fuzz Face that got some of the low end like the Ox Fuzz and as much control as I can get out of it. I came across a layout by Ataraxia Engineering called the 4-Knob Fuzz Face. Its a basic Fuzz Face layout with a charge pump to make it a negative ground pedal. This pedal has a few of the more “well known” mods.

Here is the layout I used

 

Looks like the ground pour got the best of me with my solder. No biggie.. it sounds great.

I just simply love this delay. Josh over at 1776 made a solid design and its bullet proof. This is the 2nd one I have built and I am not sure why but this one was a lot harder to fit in a 1590B. At the end of the day I finally got it fit and it came out pretty clean… oh oh .. and it sounds great too.

Here is the build Doc from 1776 Effects

I am debating if I should label the controls or leave it as is. Think I will toss it on my board and see how it goes.

I pulled the information from diy-fever and I wanted to make a quick PCB for it. I am trying to force myself to use Eagle but for something so simple I decided to use DIYLC for a quick layout. Here is a description of this pulled from diy-fever.

This circuits lets you try many symmetrical and asymmetrical clipping types combining few most used clipping diodes: Silicon, Germanium, Rectifier, LED and FET (used as diode: Drain and Gate for cathode and Source for anode). Below is chart of forward voltages I measured on all parts used here.

This is how mine turned out.

Worked perfect and I was able to try a few different configuration with a Rat pedal I am building.

A few months back I made a desktop PSU for my work bench and I thought the Madbean Road Rage charge pump would be perfect since I was able to get +9v -9V 12v & 18V all in one box. I needed to make some DC jacks for the PSU and decided to spruce it up a bit with some easy to find parts. This is the items I needed for this project,

• DC Power Plug 2.1mm – I grabbed these since they were cheap and did the job.
• 18 Gauge Speaker wire – I’m not sure where I bought this since it was a stash I had in my garage.
• Black Paracord – I love this stuff but it can be a pain to work with. I suggest taking your time and making sure you use something very sharp to cut it. Also, make sure it does not fray to much, I use a lighter to melt the end a bit.

 

 

 

 

I cut the wire and paracord to the same length. You might need to cut the paracord a bit longer due to the diameter of the cable may shorten the overall length of the paracord.

 

Remove the white nylon strings from with in the paracord. They just pull right out with no effort.

 

I found it 4000 times easier to put the DC jack plastic covers on the paracord before feeding the wire through. Experiment and rinse and repeat.

 

Now for the slow part of this process, feeding the wire into the paracord. Think of the paracord like a “chinese finger trap” and you need to push the paracord together to expand it. I know.. I Know “what the hell is her talking about”, trust me, you will figure it out.

 

All done, that wasn’t to bad, right?

 

I trim the ground wire back a bit (In this case I used the wire with this white stripe on it) so I can solder it to the sleeve of the DC jack.

 

Shazam, all soldered up. wow this picture makes it look like a pretty bad job but since the ground wire was trimmed there is a very low possibility for a short.

 

Here it is all put together. I think the paracord just makes it look so clean.