-This is unverified – Hope to verify it this weekend.

There are some hard working people at Madbean forum that have been working on a great spreadsheet with a bunch of Big Muff variants on it. I wanted to contribute is some way and I found that no one has picked apart the LSTR for the list.

There was a schematic that was posted in FSB forums.

Mark over at Tagboard Effects made a vero layout for it.

Since we at the Madbean forums use the Mudbunny PCB as a primer, I have matched the parts from both the FSB schematic and the Mudbunny and this is what I came up with.

Madbean Mudbunny Build Doc

This is the BOM for the Black Arts LSTR built on a Mudbunny PCB.

Resistors		Capacitors		Diodes
R1	1M	C1	100n	D1 – D4	1N914
R2	39K	C2	560p	D5	1N4001
R3	100K	C3	100n
R4	470K	C4	100n	Transistors
R5	100R	C5	560p	Q1-Q4	MPSA12
R6	15K	C6	100n
R7	1K	C7	100n	Pots
R8	15K	C8	560p	SUS	100KA
R9	100K	C9	100n	TONE	250KB
R10	470K	C10	1n	MID	50KB
R11	100R	C11	10n	VOL	100KA
R12	15K	C12	100n
R13	15K	C13	100n
R14	100K	C14	100uF
R15	470K	C15	100n
R16	100R
R17	15K
R18	68K
R19	MID POT
R20	470K
R21	100K
R22	15K
R23	1K2
R24	100R

Excel Spreadsheet in juansolo’s format

Update: populated the Mudbunny this weekend but I need to do the off board wiring. I hope to work on this tonight.

Updated:

Populated

Looking at making a MIDI controller for my Timeline and wanted to look at a few options. First off the retail units I have been reading about.

Tech 21 MIDI Mouse
Disaster Area MMC-3
PedalSync OZ

I am really wanting to take advantage of the Full/Half speed toggle and the reverse and Undo functions. To start out I will most likely look at doing a 3 footswitch box just for those functions until I can learn more about how to have mode switching like the Disaster Area units have.

Strymon Timeline MIDI implementation chart for looping functions:

You can set up your MIDI controller with either MIDI CC (continuous controller), or MIDI note numbers.

MIDI CC values:

• Record – CC# 87, any value
• Play – CC# 86, any value
• Stop – CC# 85, any value
• Reverse (toggle) – CC# 94, any value
• Full/Half Speed (toggle) – CC# 95, any value
• Pre/Post (toggle) – CC# 96, any value
• Undo (to initial loop) – CC# 89, any value
• Redo – CC# 90, any value
• Looper Level – CC# 90, value range 0-17

Note values:

• Record – note 0, velocity > 0
• Play – note 2, velocity > 0
• Stop – note 4, velocity > 0
• Reverse (toggle) – note 14, velocity > 0
• Full/Half Speed (toggle) – note 16, velocity > 0
• Pre/Post (toggle) – note 17, velocity > 0
• Undo (to initial loop) – note 7, velocity > 0
• Redo – note 9, velocity > 0

I was thinking about doing a Arduino project but figured it would be to bulky and to much unneeded overhead. I think a basic PIC with a small program to translate the MIDI values will be my best option.

More to come…

I used a Madbean Mudbunny as a base PCB for this great big muff pi variant. This thing just screams “stoner rock” at its finest. I am really starting to like the diode switch set to no diodes, it sounds so harsh.. in a good way. The High/Low input switch I found pretty useless in my situation since the high setting always sounded better to my ears. I will need to see what the real purpose of this switch is.. I might not understand its usage clearly.

Finally.. FINALLY.. I got a working layout. I had so many problems getting this to work and come to find out I had an old layout that had errors. Thanks to the guys at DIYSB they help to point me in the right direction. Now that its done I simply love this fuzz, it is my 2nd favorite fuzz with the v4 Big Muff OpAmp fuzz. This pedal nails that harsh fuzz that I was craving.

Here is the layout I used

 

I am a bit sad since I got this all put together and I dropped a screw driver on it and chipped the paint right next to the SPDT switch.

I was looking for a Fuzz Face that got some of the low end like the Ox Fuzz and as much control as I can get out of it. I came across a layout by Ataraxia Engineering called the 4-Knob Fuzz Face. Its a basic Fuzz Face layout with a charge pump to make it a negative ground pedal. This pedal has a few of the more “well known” mods.

Here is the layout I used

 

Looks like the ground pour got the best of me with my solder. No biggie.. it sounds great.

I just simply love this delay. Josh over at 1776 made a solid design and its bullet proof. This is the 2nd one I have built and I am not sure why but this one was a lot harder to fit in a 1590B. At the end of the day I finally got it fit and it came out pretty clean… oh oh .. and it sounds great too.

Here is the build Doc from 1776 Effects

I am debating if I should label the controls or leave it as is. Think I will toss it on my board and see how it goes.

I pulled the information from diy-fever and I wanted to make a quick PCB for it. I am trying to force myself to use Eagle but for something so simple I decided to use DIYLC for a quick layout. Here is a description of this pulled from diy-fever.

This circuits lets you try many symmetrical and asymmetrical clipping types combining few most used clipping diodes: Silicon, Germanium, Rectifier, LED and FET (used as diode: Drain and Gate for cathode and Source for anode). Below is chart of forward voltages I measured on all parts used here.

This is how mine turned out.

Worked perfect and I was able to try a few different configuration with a Rat pedal I am building.

A few months back I made a desktop PSU for my work bench and I thought the Madbean Road Rage charge pump would be perfect since I was able to get +9v -9V 12v & 18V all in one box. I needed to make some DC jacks for the PSU and decided to spruce it up a bit with some easy to find parts. This is the items I needed for this project,

• DC Power Plug 2.1mm – I grabbed these since they were cheap and did the job.
• 18 Gauge Speaker wire – I’m not sure where I bought this since it was a stash I had in my garage.
• Black Paracord – I love this stuff but it can be a pain to work with. I suggest taking your time and making sure you use something very sharp to cut it. Also, make sure it does not fray to much, I use a lighter to melt the end a bit.

 

 

 

 

I cut the wire and paracord to the same length. You might need to cut the paracord a bit longer due to the diameter of the cable may shorten the overall length of the paracord.

 

Remove the white nylon strings from with in the paracord. They just pull right out with no effort.

 

I found it 4000 times easier to put the DC jack plastic covers on the paracord before feeding the wire through. Experiment and rinse and repeat.

 

Now for the slow part of this process, feeding the wire into the paracord. Think of the paracord like a “chinese finger trap” and you need to push the paracord together to expand it. I know.. I Know “what the hell is her talking about”, trust me, you will figure it out.

 

All done, that wasn’t to bad, right?

 

I trim the ground wire back a bit (In this case I used the wire with this white stripe on it) so I can solder it to the sleeve of the DC jack.

 

Shazam, all soldered up. wow this picture makes it look like a pretty bad job but since the ground wire was trimmed there is a very low possibility for a short.

 

Here it is all put together. I think the paracord just makes it look so clean.

This beast has been sitting on my bench for over a month and I just needed 2 parts to complete it. I FINALLY remembered to get the needed parts on my past Tayda order and got this finished. I bought the PCB from JMK since I love his board layouts and onboard controls.

Here is the build doc