Jon’s post on mojo

I am following a thread over at Madbean and I love Jon’s (Midwayfair) breakdown. I always love to hear his opinion on subjects.

I’ll just go through individual parts …

Resistors

RG Keen did an excellent article on Carbon Comp resistors, which is fortunate because I don’t have the equipment to test this. They are capable of introducing resistor distortion at VERY high voltages. This property CANNOT occur in stompboxes. I’m not saying “is likely inaudible” or “maybe a little once in a while.” It is literally impossible to produce this property in a stompbox running on 9, 12, 15, 18, 24, or even 30 volts, which I imagine is every guitar pedal and almost every rack unit ever created.

I did matched resistor replacements one at a time and could not hear a difference except a little added noise. That was good enough for me.

Notice no one claims that carbon film resistors have mojo? Maybe it’s because they just weren’t used during a period of time where people think everything had mojo.

Now you want some REAL mojo, get spendy and find glass resistors. Those things look frigging awesome and are super rare and expensive. I never was able to get enough together for a treble booster, but I really wanted them for an all-glass-and-metal booster.

Capacitors

There’s another RG Keen article where he examined capacitor types and scoped them. This is another thing that only appears when you have enough voltage and bandwidth to produce changes.

Most of the capacitor mojo ends up being applied to guitars, where it is utterly and completely absurd. A lot of multimeters (including mine at home) don’t measure capacitance, and capacitors have horrible tolerances, so it gets particularly laughable when people swap them out in a guitar or something and say, “look, this one sounds so much WARMER” (and man what a stupid word that is). Add to that the fact that the human brain is incapable of remembering a sound for more than 2 seconds (which is surely longer than it took you to switch that cap in your guitar) and it’s <shakes head> time. In particular, because it’s an RC filter, differences between caps become even less noticeable the second the guitar’s tone pot is adjusted.

However, caps really do sound different in the right circumstances. Some electrolytics have less internal resistance, so they actually work better, which can be important for filtering out noise. Ceramics really do introduce distortion when working with enough voltage (not the couple hundred microamps your pickups). Film caps have reliably good performance. Some paper in oil caps really do have the lowest distortion of any other types of caps.

But like resistors, most people building mojo-riffic products, and dare I say it most people building their own stompboxes with mojo parts, get it into their head that some type of capacitor sounds better, so when they go to test it OF COURSE it sounds better, and you will never be able to convince them otherwise, even if you run it through a scope with matched capacitance. Suddenly it’ll become the Emperor’s New Ears, or “the scope isn’t sensitive enough” (!), or something like that.

Transistors
Yes, germanium transistors sound different from off-the-shelf silicon transistors. And I say this as a lover of germanium. But the reason is that they just happen to have some properties (mainly leakage) inherent in their construction. You can fake leakage. You can match the lower gain characteristics (it’s tough getting low-gain silicon, but nothing says that you have to max out the gain on any particular transistor …). There is really only one property of germanium that can’t be faked with a couple extra passives, and that’s temperature drift — a characteristic that we usually take measures to minimize or eliminate!

Germanium transistors ARE useful in that different types might have more of a particular property that you need without needing the extra parts (usually a treble bypass and an adjustment of the positive bias resistor). Use them for that reason. Don’t use them because you think germanium is some magic spice. It isn’t.

Diodes

Let’s all have a nice laugh at Am for tracking down some super rare silicon diode and buying all of them up because they think that forward voltage can’t be matched with other diodes.

Germanium diodes also have leakage, which results in a softer knee. If you want to fake this with schottky diodes, you can use some small amount of resistance in series with the diodes.

Temperature drift is, again, not generally considered a desirable characteristic by anyone.

For the most part, mojo is almost entirely about the idea that older components somehow sound better. You can always introduce flaws intentionally. Even a lot of cheap modern parts are made better than older parts, but the high-quality components now are worlds better and more reliable. Every time I see someone posting that the carbon comp resistors are what makes their pedal sound so good I want to ask them if they’re typing their build report on an Apple 2 or a Commodore 64.

Boosted Rat

This is a layout I got from Espanhol over at Handmades. It’s a Proco Rat with a LPB-1. Looks like a fun pedal so I decided to toss it on the bench.

Etched:

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Populated:

Needed:
I am out of 30p capacitors. On order.

OpAmp Big Muff

Had this PCB populated and sitting around for 6 or 7 months it’s finally time to get this boxed up. This will replace my 1590BB version of the circuit. The PCB layout is from Scruffie from FSB/DIYSB forums.

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Prince Albert (RAH)

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This is a Catlinbread RAH work alike. I used a layout of the PCB by plesur at FSB Forum call the “Prince Albert”. This pedal was created to nail the Jimmy Page sound from the great 1970 Royal Albert Hall performance.

Build Doc

Specs:
BS170 Voltages
Q1 D= 5.8 G= 5.2 S= 3.7
Q2 D= 5.8 G= 5.2 S= 3.6
Q3 D= 5.8 G= 5.2 S= 3.7

Gains
Q1 VGS(ON) 2.298v
VGS(OFF) 1.580v
Q2 VGS(ON) 2.364v
VGS(OFF) 1.637v
Q3 VGS(ON) 2.305v
VGS(OFF) 1.584v

Lovepedal Les Lius

I have wanted a 1590B version of this ever since I did a clone of the original in a 1590BB enclosure. I love this pedal but hated the footprint. As I never use the boost foot switch I decided to use a toggle instead. I used the Madbean Lavache transfer and made my own PCB since his layout is fantastic with onboard pots. For the transistor I used a 2N5088 with a lower gain of 320 Hfe.

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Voltages:
Q1
C 7.4v
B 0.8v
E 0.2v

Mass Cleanup! Part one

My box-o-fail has grown and my box-o-notquitedone has doubled. I am going to spend the next 2 weeks working on troubleshooting my failed builds and seeing if they are recoverable. I have also started a inventory list of what is needed to finish the “Not quite done yet” pile. Most of the things needed are ICs and Pots and I, for some reason, always forget to order them. Projects that are needed to be finished up include:

  • Madbean – Boneyard
  • Effdub Audio – Pro Co Rat Drop-In
  • Beejive – Apis Project
  • Grind Customs Fx – Tenebrion
  • Midwayfair – Supreaux Deux
  • Bigfoot Fx – Magnavibe
  • Leslie Simulator
  • CBread RAH
  • Electro-Harmonix Big Muff OpAmp
  • Madbean – Lavache

I have a few other builds that I am not to happy with the sound of and I need to spend some time with them to see if I made a mistake or if they need some tweaking.

Flexi-Muff by DutchMF

I got myself yet another Electro-Harmonix big muff variant PCB this week. User DutchMF from Madbean Forums has made a flexible Big Muff layout to achieve as many mods as possible on one board. Here are some notes from DuchMF.

I’ve been working with Eagle for quite a while now, but never made anything that I thought would be of any use to you guys…. Until now!! Taking JuanSolo’s Muff spreadsheet as my starting point, and with a lot of looking at the Mudbunny schematic and several online resources, I’ve designed a pcb that allows one to build all the Muff version from Juan’s spreadsheet without any off-board or added on components. You can build either a 3 or 4 knob version, with options for a 3-in-line or a triangle layout by setting a pair of jumpers.

Board came in last week and now I have to decide what to build on it. I am thinking a Supercollider or another pharaoh. Not to sure yet.

photo 1

 

Here are the build docs

Business Plan?

A user over at BYOC was turning his hobby into a business and I like some of the ideas he came up with so far and wanted to make some notes.

Goal: Design unique guitar pedals that appeal to a wide range of consumers.

Business Rules:

  • No Pre-orders
  • No Advanced Cash
  • Products Ship within 2 Business days
  • Waiting List OK as long as no cash involved.
  • Unique Circuits
  • Limited reverse engineering capabilities
  • Lifetime Warranty
  • Trial Period (Maybe, still trying to work this one out)
  • Customer Service is a MUST
  • Straight forward marketing, no HYPE etc.
  • Direct from Manufacturer Purchasing

There are some great ideas listed and it gives me a lot to think about. When working with friends I want to make sure they are happy with what I build and feel confident in using the pedal I have built for them. I will need to come up with my own business rules. Right off the bat I would say the “Limited reverse engineering capabilities” is not important to me. I really like to share the things I build and seeing how I rely on the DIY community for my projects, I would give right back.