Category: Notes

Rub-a-Dub Reverb Mods

Just some notes I found around online. Need to verify them.

Output Boost:

R5 pins 1 and 2 on a 10k potentiometer.
I’d recommend putting a 10k in series with a 10k pot.

Damp Control:

R9 and R10, you can substitute one of these resistors for a 5kB pot.
lug 1 and lug 3 goes where the resistor was and lug 2 with a 68nF goes to ground. This should work as CJ damp control, just the values are different. (10k for 5k and 33nF for 68nF)

Electro-Harmonix Company History in a nutshell

This is a “work in progress” but it gives you a good idea what was going on in the history of Electro-Harmonix
  • 1968
    • Mike Matthews founded Electro-Harmonix in New York.
    • First product Axis fuzz introduced, essentially the same unit as the Foxey Lady pedal he sold to Guild.
    • LPB-1 Linear Power Booster introduced at NAMM.
  • 1978
    • Mike Matthews named New York State Small Business Person of the Year.
    • Plastic, Moulders’ and Novelty Worker’s to setup a Union but Mike and employees refused.
  • 1979
    • Electro-Harmonix grossed annual sales of 5 million dollars.
  • 1981
    • Mike Matthews attacked by Union officials.
  • 1982
    • Pedal: 16-second digital delay created.
    • Due to Union problems Mike closed the doors of Electro-Harmonix and filed bankruptcy
    • Mike Matthews started buying back his assets from auction to resurrect Electro-Harmonix.
  • 1984
    • Electro-Harmonix went bankrupt for the second time due to Japanese competition.
    • Pedals were sold through Broadway Computer Corporation.
  • 1986
    • Broadway Computer Corporation was out of business.
    • Mike Matthews regained ownership of the Electro-Harmonix trademark.
  • 1988
    • Mike Matthews starts new company New Sensor Corporation.
    • New Sensor Corporation a supplier of vacuum tubes and the Soul Kiss pedal.
  • 1990
    • Pedals were started to be made in Russia un the name Sovtek/New Sensor Corp.
  • 2001
    • Mike Mathews brings reissues of Electro-Harmonix pedals back to the USA.
  • 2002
    • Electro-Harmonix started developing new pedals in New York.
  • 2006
    • Electro-Harmonix introduces the XO and NANO series. These pedals use surfaced mounted parts and the PCBs are outsourced and assembled in NY.

Footswitch for my pedalboard

I wanted to come up with a smaller footprint pedal to control a few outboard items like:

  • Fender Twin Reverb – Reverb/Vib switch
  • Roland Space Echo Bypass (latching switch)
  • Multi Use Bypass (latching switch)

Quick Parts List

  • Enclosure $12.95
  • 4 DPDT push switches
  • 2 mono jacks $1.95 ea
  • 1 stereo jack $1.95 ea
  • 4 5mm Black LED Bezel mounts $0.89 ea
  • 4 White LEDs 5mm $0.25 ea
  • D/C Power Jacks $1.50 ea
  • Resistor 100k

Pedalboard power requirements

My Pedaltrain Jr board is full and I’m now thinking that I should start looking for a permanent power solution instead of the OneSpot. Don’t get me wrong, I think the OneSpot is a great product but I may be over the 800Ma constraint. The results can not be good for pedals and the sound. I think the best thing to do is to list out the pedals on the board and add up the MA’s and see where I’m at.

  • TC Electronics PolyTune Mini (9 VDC 40mA)
  • Xotic EP Booster (9 to 18 VDC 5mA)
  • Barber Tone Press (9 VDC 10mA)
  • Electro-Harmonix Big Muff Pi (9VDC 6mA)
  • Tech21 SansAmp GT2 (9VDC 5mA)
  • Erni ball VP (Non-Powered)
  • Electro-Harmonix Deluxe Memory Man (corded)
  • Strymon Timeline (9VDC 250mA minimum)
  • Strymon BlueSky (9VDC 250mA minimum)
  • Neunaber Technology WET Stereo Reverb (9 to 12VDC 80mA)

 

NI Maschine Kit Layout

I have a bunch of drum machine samples that I wanted to make proper kit layouts and save them on a thumb drive to use/backup. I started with looking at the 808 and DMX kits that came with the Maschine software and will use these as the basis for my kits. Here is a rundown of the 16 pads.

  1. Kick (Long)
  2. Snare (Tight)
  3. High Hat (Closed)
  4. High Hat (Open)
  5. Kick (Tight)
  6. Snare (Loose/Pitched)
  7. Shaker / percussion
  8. High Hat (Tight/Muted)
  9. Cowbell / percussion / Wood / Claves
  10. Clap (Long) / Tom (High)
  11. Tom (High) / Tom (Mid)
  12. Tom (Low)
  13. Cymbal (Crash)
  14. Clap (Tight)
  15.  Cymbal (Ride)

This will be used as a template to create classic drum machine kits that can be changed on the fly and keep the samples/beat together without a snare being hit instead of a bass drum. 

NI Maschine to Ableton Live for SideChain Compression

So as of Maschine 1.7 there is no internal compression sidechain setup and for most electronic/hiphop music this is much needed. So I was trolling around and found these notes in the NI Forms.

Here is a sidechain workaround method

1.) Open create an Ableton live set with one midi track (for maschine) and however many audio tracks you have depends on your groups. (i.e. if you have 3 groups with patterns playing, you will need at least 3 audio tracks)

2.) Route your GROUPS to outputs 2, 3, etc…

3.) On Ableton, select the I/O options on the audio tracks…then pick the midi track with MASCHINE on it for the input. on the box below, select whatever output you assigned the group to be. For instance: if your GROUP A is routed out of Maschine as OUT 2, on the audio track, you select MASCHINE on the first box, then OUT 2 on the second box.

4.) Set all the groups to IN, repeat as necessary.

What you should have so far is Maschine on a midi track, and a # of audio tracks depending on your # of groups. Hit a pad on group A to see if the audio “jumps” in Ableton, to check your work.

5.) Once you are all routed up, we got a couple more steps. Take the kick drum, or whatever you want to trigger the side-chain, and go to it’s sound page and route it out of maschine to a completely new routing. (i.e. OUT 10) and create a new audio track, name it “KICK” and route it like we did earlier, so the kick comes through Ableton.

6.) Apply an ableton compressor on any audio tracks you want side-chained, and select their side-chain input to be “KICK” track, make sure the track is set to “IN”.

You should be good now…you have essentially used Ableton as a new medium to carry maschine in, allowing you to side-chain.

The ‘Handy Tips’ Pedal board building

Snagged this from TGP forums I wanted to archive this. I do not agree with all of this , but it has some great points that help keep us going in the right direction.

The first law of pedalboards: Anything than can break or fail, will in time, break or fail!!

Cables:

  1. Cables- the most overlooked thing on a pedalboard. Buy good quality, keep as short as poss. DON’T buy anything other than soldered ended cables. (sorry, George L’s but your product falls apart in use and when transported unless you solder it)
  2. Also, arrange in straight lines with r/a corners to change direction.
  3. Never coil cables, and especially in ‘one loop’- this will cause induction and hum. This applies to power leads and patch cables
  4. When planning a board, always add 1.5 inches around the perimeter of each pedal for jacks and ps jacks and to prevent hum via induction
  5. Never loom midi and audio leads as midi leads can induce noise.

Placement:

  1. Put the ones you stamp on most at the front.
  2. If you use a looper, put looped pedals at the back as theoretically you won’t need to stamp on them
  3. Put power supplies under the board
  4. Think about comfort- eg if you use a Pedaltrain, often a wah is not comfortable to use at such a steep angle.
  5. be logical- if you play in one band and always play stage left, then run your input, output and mains leads to accomodate this. If you play in many bands and in different stage places, try an arrangement that gives flexibility.
  6. Pedal heights- try and use a packer to get the pedals you stamp on at roughly the same height (other wise you’ll tread on setting knobs!)- a 10mm thick piece of MDF covered in velcro both sides is dandy

Other things:

  1. Putting panel Neutriks on the side of PB- DON”T. You’re adding an extra connector, an extra length of cable, and an extra weak or fail point into your rig. (I fell into this trap)
  2. Power supplies- make sure any you buy are NOT daisy chained solutions (even if housed in a metal box)- make sure they’re individual PS’s – like a PP2.
  3. True bypass in isolation, generally, is useless. It relies upon every pedal having matched impedance when on- you’ll get loads of mis-matches. Buffered pedals or loopers with buffer better.
  4. Get a mains conditioner for the pedals and amps. Pays dividends. Olson are cheap and they rock (and Pete Cornish recommends them).
  5. Transport- do you need to transport, and if so, how? if you do, wrote a checklist of pedalboard ‘downtaking’ in the bag or lid- like take out all jacks on the periphery of the board before putting flightcase lid on!!!

Chain

Generally:

  • Buffer
  • Volume (as guitar vol)
  • Wah
  • Whammy
  • Envelopes, Pitch shifters, Auto wahs
  • Compressor
  • Fuzz
  • OD
  • Boost
  • Volume (as master volume)
  • Vibe
  • Any other modulation
  • Delay
  • Reverb
  • Leslie sims (especially stereo ones)

I don’t believe a tuner should be in line through choice. Prefer in an isolated loop with a mute function. End of chain best, to prevent ghost noise