Category: DIY

Workbench up and standing

I got my workbench built last night and I started to populate it with my tools. Tonight I will be labeling my parts drawers for all my passive electronics.

Parts should be here by Friday and then I can get started on a few projects. Can’t wait!

Workbench Notes

I am just taking some notes on what will be on my small workbench for this winters projects. Here we go.

  • Metal workbench with 2 drawers from Harbor Freight.
  • Pref board hangers for smaller tools. Screw drivers and sockets and hand tools.
  • iPad stand and charger. I use my iPad for all my schematics and build notes.
  • Small basic speakers for when I play music from my iPad.
  • 2 40 drawer parts holders from Harbor Freight. I will be storing all my passive parts in these drawers.
  • Weller soldiering station with accessories.
  • Portable oscilloscope.
  • Pedal breadboard test unit with battery powered amp to test pedals with.
  • Small vice for soldering and holding parts.
  • Bench top craftsman drill press.
  • Drill press vice.
  • Metal or plastic strip with 1/2″ and 3/8″ holes to hold jacks and pots and switches when soldering.

I’m sure I will think of more….till then.

Pedal Build Process Part 1

A rundown of how I start to make a pedal. I wanted to document this so I can learn better ways of doing it along the way.

  • Mark “cuts” and “links” on the VeroBoard with a sharpie.

  • Cut strip side with a blade so the traces will not lift.
  • I use a drill bit to drill through the PCB and “cut the trace” that way.
  • Test traces with a multimeter to make sure cuts are correct.
  • Soldier on links first.
  • I like to shoot on some flat or satin spray paint to the PCB just to get rid of that ugly brown color.

  • I like to place the IC/Transistor sockets first.

  • I then mount all the resistors.

  • Next up, capacitors. I start with the physical smaller caps since they can/will be a pain to install once the physically larger caps are installed.

  • Now on to the larger caps.

  • Install the ICs or transistors in this case, into the sockets.

  • PCB layout is complete.

More to come…

Pedal Build: Skreddy Mayo Clone

I have wanted one of these pedals for awhile and I just can’t justify the $500+ dollars for one on eBay.

Schematics (verified)

Vero Layout (verified)

I ordered all the parts from Mammothelectronics

It was mentioned on “Guitar FX Layouts” that you could use 4 2N5088 or 2N5089 transistors but I really wanted to make a true clone. I went ahead and found 4 vintage NOS 2N5133 Transistors for $51.85 shipped.

Project total so far: $93.54

Update:

All the parts came in yesterday and the project is now in full swing.

New build: Fairfield Barbershop

20120910-235058.jpg

I started with a blank vero board and marked all the cut traces with a sharpie. I then used a 3/32 drill bit and drilled out the holes of the cut traces. This seemed to work well and clean.

I need to pick up a few 2Mohm resistors to finish this out. Will be hitting up a local electronics store tomorrow to get the needed parts.

More updates to come.

Tools Tools Tools

Whats on my work bench and what needs to be added?

  • Weller WESD51 Digital Soldering Station
  • Weller 03963 Ungar Antistatic Desolder Pump
  • Needle-nose pliers
  • Good wire strippers
  • Flush-edged wire cutter
  • A small (precision) screwdriver set
  • Digital Multimeter
  • Breadboard and jumper wires
  • 24-gauge hookup wire (at least 3 colors)

Bit Sizes

Here are some standard hole sizes for DIY effects:

Drill Pilot Holes: 1/16″

  • 1/4″ Input/Output = 3/8″ hole
  • Toggle Switches = 1/4″ hole
  • 16mm Pots = 5/16″ hole
  • FootSwitch = 1/2″ hole
  • DC Power = 1/2″ hole

 

Big Muff Breakdown

I have been focusing on the older Electro-Harmonix Big Muffs the past few weeks and have compiled a list of changes between them. 90% of this information came from Kit’s Big Muff Pi History page

I essentially want to make one pedal that can switch between the Ram’s Head, V3 and the Russian. Here is what I got so far.

Clipping / Blocking Caps – These two caps determine the bandwidth to be clipped by the diodes in the two Clipping Stages, and have the most affect on the sound of the Big Muff.

Feedback / Filter Caps – They are responsible for how fizzy/buzzy a Big Muff will sound. Essentially they filter the amount of high frequencies in the bandwidth, determining if a Muff will sound more on the smooth side or the harsh side.

Tone Stack Filters – Big Muffs are known for their trademark mids scooped tones, meaning the mid frequencies are removed from the bandwidth, making the sound very deep and dark.

High Pass Filter – R5 / C9
Low Pass Filter – R8 / C8

Triangle:
Clipping / Blocking:
C6 .05uF, .1uF, .12uF, and 1.0uF
C7 .05uF, .1uF, .12uF, and 1.0uF
Feedback / Filter Caps:
C10 500pF, 560pF, 470pF
C11 500pF, 560pF, 470pF
C12 500pF, 560pF, 470pF
Tone Stack Filters:
C8 27k (Early), 33k (Common)
C9 27k (Early), 33k (Common)
R5
R8

Ram’s Head:
Clipping / Blocking:
C6 .047uF, .1uF, .12uF, and 1.0uF
C7 .047uF, .1uF, .12uF, and 1.0uF
Feedback / Filter Caps:
C10 560pF, 470pF
C11 560pF, 470pF
C12 560pF, 470pF
Tone Stack Filters:
C8 33k, 39k
C9 33k
R5
R8

V3:
Clipping / Blocking:
C6 1.0uF
C7 1.0uF
Feedback / Filter Caps:
C10 560pF, 470pF
C11 560pF, 470pF
C12 560pF, 470pF
Tone Stack Filters:
C8
C9 22k, 39k
R5
R8

Russian:
Clipping / Blocking:
C6 .047uF
C7 .047uF
Feedback / Filter Caps:
C10 430pF (Early), 500pF(the Civil War model), 470pF (green & black ver)
C11 430pF (Early), 500pF(the Civil War model), 470pF (green & black ver)
C12 430pF (Early), 500pF(the Civil War model), 470pF (green & black ver)
Tone Stack Filters:
C8 20k (Early), 22k (Black)
C9 22k
R5
R8

 

notes

  • Triangle version: R1=33k, C1=4n, R2=33k, C2=10n;
  • Ramshead version: R1=33k, C1=4n, R2=22k, C2=10n;
  • 1975 version: R1=39k, C1=4n, R2 = 22k, C2=10n;
  • 1977 opamp version (1): R1=5.6k, C1=100n, R2=1.2k, C2=120n;
  • 1977 opamp version (2): R1=8.2k, C1=100n, R2=1.2k, C2=120n;
  • Green Russian version: R1=20k, C1=3.9n, R2=22k, C2=10n;
  • Late model: R1=39k, C1=4n, R2=100k, C2=10n
  • Reissue version: R1=22k, C1=3.9n, R2=22k, C2=10n;
  • Little Big Muff version = reissue version.